My first board was a 7'6" Local Motion pintail single fin. I got it off the rack at the LM Kapiolani store in Honolulu. In the early-80s, this kind of board was called a "mini-tanker", long before the term "fun board" made it's way into the surfing lexicon. It was a great board; sadly, stolen, but boy, did I have a lot of amazing rides on it, including my first in-and-out tube ride as well as my first time riding switch stance. I clumsily switched from goofy to regular; for the uninitiated, that means "changing from surfing right foot forward to left foot forward".
That was a memorable wave: a long, long right-hander at a surf spot called Poles outside the Marine Biology Lab on the campus at UCSB. I surfed this particular head-high, glassy wave from Poles all the way to Goleta Beach, which is off-campus...a two football field (200 yard+) ride, all riding with my left foot forward for the first time. A thrilling, man-I'll-never-forget-this-wave kind of experience.
After that board was taken, I got ahold of my brother's 6'6" fish-tailed Local Motion with glass-on thruster fins. Boy did I dig that stick: a great beach break board but could handle anything, as it was a full 3" thick and 21" wide. It's an airbrush job so ugly that it's cool.
Happily, I still have the above Local Motion. It's appropriately
dubbed The Funky Avocado.
dubbed The Funky Avocado.
Here are some other boards of mine, past and present. The numbers
in the between the parentheses are the board's measurements, listed as such:
(nose width 12" from tip, mid-ship width, tail width 12" from tip and thickness).
in the between the parentheses are the board's measurements, listed as such:
(nose width 12" from tip, mid-ship width, tail width 12" from tip and thickness).
Boss 10'1" with 1"red cedar stringer
(18.5"x24"x16.5"x3.5")
(18.5"x24"x16.5"x3.5")
Hunt Customs New Dimension 9'10"
with resin tiger striping. My cheeks,
white with too much zinc oxide
white with too much zinc oxide
Deck of Hunt 9'10"mere moments before it's
maiden voyage at First Point, spring '05.
(19"x23"x16"x 3.25")
Bing 10'0" Silver Spoon
(18.5"x23x15.5"x3.25")
(18.5"x23x15.5"x3.25")
Murphy 10'5" custom with 1" red cedar center
stringer and 1/4" outboards, emerald tint.
(18.5"x23.5"x16"x3.5")
Dennis Andries 11'0" mega-noserider with
an 11" glass-on fin. Ton of tail kick.
(20"x25"x15.5"x4")
This will be my board for my 70's,
though it's awfully fun to ride now.
My friend Buzz calls it the LDP, my
"lay-down-paddle" board. Ouch!
My friend Buzz calls it the LDP, my
"lay-down-paddle" board. Ouch!
This is an 11'0" Terry Martin Legacy. That's Terry
standing there holding it, shortly before I picked
it up, Spring 2011. More on Terry later.
17.5"x24"x16.5x3.375"
Not bad, eh? Movie stars, swimming pools. ;^D
Mitch Taylor Model, let's say "an homage to" (or, less charitably,
"a ripoff of") the famed Con Ugly model. Wonderful tiprider.
Heavier than the 11'0" Terry Martin.
10'6"x20"x24"x17"x3.5"
Tyler Custom noserider for Bill Gray.
Another tremendous schnozzer. You can
see a pattern developing here.
10'4"x19"x24"x16"x3.25"
I will not be so slack in posting. This has been a crazy last couple weeks, marred by back pain. But it's better now....80% and climbing. =^}
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